I've never been addicted drugs before. I just read what I wrote in the following lines and I can imagine its something like this.
I finally made it into the waves this past weekend. Wellington finally had surf. Pretty much the first time since I've been here. I still don't have a board, but I needed a surf, and there were waves. It was 4 foot and offshore. Nothing spectacular, but when your gills have been dry for two months, anything will do. Rentals were expensive and my only option, but I could almost taste the salt on my lips, it didn't matter. Money was a minor detail when it came to craving just a few seconds of my feet on the board looking down the face of clean shoulder high wave. The thought of not going out, was never an option.
The minute my head went under that water, I felt clean again. Clean being the only verb I can possibly come up with to describe the feeling, when everything all at once seems to make sense. The cold water on your face, the breeze on your skin, the feeling of your feet dangling free. It's almost like it enhances you senses. The dripping of water from your hair on your shoulders, the smell of the sea, the feeling of the board wax on your finger tips, the colors of the hills looking back at the beach. For a moment, just one moment, everything makes sense.
I realized that it was the 6th of January. I arrived in New Zealand on the 6th of December. I have been here exactly one month. WOW! Was really all I could think of at that time. There was so much I'd been through in just the last 30 days. Almost every emotion humanly possible. Recently, I'd been struggling a bit to try and make everything all work out. Pretty much stressing in wondering how it will all work out, because things were not happening the way I thought they would. But that afternoon in the waves reminded me that it is all working out. 30 days ago I showed up in a foreign country with a backpack and few dollars. I managed to buy a car, find a place to live, a job and made some incredible friends along the way. If all that can happen in 30 days, kind of makes me wonder what will happen in the next 30.