Monday, January 7, 2008

32 days and counting...

I've never been addicted drugs before. I just read what I wrote in the following lines and I can imagine its something like this.
I finally made it into the waves this past weekend. Wellington finally had surf. Pretty much the first time since I've been here. I still don't have a board, but I needed a surf, and there were waves. It was 4 foot and offshore. Nothing spectacular, but when your gills have been dry for two months, anything will do. Rentals were expensive and my only option, but I could almost taste the salt on my lips, it didn't matter. Money was a minor detail when it came to craving just a few seconds of my feet on the board looking down the face of clean shoulder high wave. The thought of not going out, was never an option.
The minute my head went under that water, I felt clean again. Clean being the only verb I can possibly come up with to describe the feeling, when everything all at once seems to make sense. The cold water on your face, the breeze on your skin, the feeling of your feet dangling free. It's almost like it enhances you senses. The dripping of water from your hair on your shoulders, the smell of the sea, the feeling of the board wax on your finger tips, the colors of the hills looking back at the beach. For a moment, just one moment, everything makes sense.

I realized that it was the 6th of January. I arrived in New Zealand on the 6th of December. I have been here exactly one month. WOW! Was really all I could think of at that time. There was so much I'd been through in just the last 30 days. Almost every emotion humanly possible. Recently, I'd been struggling a bit to try and make everything all work out. Pretty much stressing in wondering how it will all work out, because things were not happening the way I thought they would. But that afternoon in the waves reminded me that it is all working out. 30 days ago I showed up in a foreign country with a backpack and few dollars. I managed to buy a car, find a place to live, a job and made some incredible friends along the way. If all that can happen in 30 days, kind of makes me wonder what will happen in the next 30.


Jacob said...

Hey buddy!!! I'm so proud of you and you sound like things are good. I really enjoy reading your blog and the kids at school think they're pretty funny. By the way we finally got a dog.
Take care, I love you in a punch in the shoulder kind of way.

Jessica said...

Hey Ryan,
It's January and I'm doing EPA data, so you know what that means! You could be sitting beside a total b!t@h in a fabric covered box...ha! I'm happy everything is going so look like a happy pelican. Jess

mike wheeler said...

Glad you finally got in the water, I still can't figure out why you dot bring your own board whenyou travel. I surfed the Dump today, it was head high building to double, glassy and the first day it didn't rain or snow in quite awhile. I've been out of the water for such along time it left me a little timid, but I got a hand full of decent waves(I let alot more pass by though). I guess the news is that I sufed the dump and I brought Lil man with me. Lindsey braved the mud and the garbage and I straped connor in a front loading pack and made the way down. I had to build the two a fire and string a tarp up befor I got to paddle out. Totaly worth it , I think I'll keep the both of them. their keepers. have fun and get on the internet and order youelf a board.