Tuesday, March 4, 2008
Fall Really is Here
Fall really is here. Woke up yesterday morning to finally see the mountains again.
It was pretty awesome watching the clouds drift away like wisps of sand on a dune on a windy day. The mountain tops were covered in snow. Camping is getting cold, but the waves are improving. Fall is here. The season is beginning.
I scored the best waves of this journey thus far. Rights peeling perfectly down the line. Surfed for 3 hours in the morning and another 2 in the evening. I feel like I'm finally improving on my rights. My tails is loosening up a bit and it feels pretty good. My shoulders have been on fire from the super long paddle back after each wave. I managed to snap a few photo's in the morning and evening. Later in the evening, a traveling pack of semi-pro Australian surfers came out to rip and dominate with their over inflated egos and little boards with fancy stickers.
After getting repeatedly dropped in on and tossed up over the rocks I finally started to say something. All I got was looks like "what are you going to do about it? There's lots of us and one of you". I could really use a crew right about now. I finally left the water a little frustrated but super stoked on the 5 hours in the water and tons of amazing waves that day. If there was ever a moment in time that an ice bath might actually be good for you, last night was it. The Auzzies have since moved on and I have the place to myself with a few other super friendly locals and travelers. Here's days worth of shots from super fun Mangamaunu Point.